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Thread: Shutdown Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    2

    Shutdown Help

    I am having some problems getting cars to stop on my track in the shut down area. My track is 72 feet long and the shut down area is only 16 feet. I have called Tunkel two times trying to get he to make me another section of shutdown area for me but he says he is to busy. What can i do to help cars stop better or should i make a section of track myself. Help will be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    have you glued the shut down??? go with the camen lite, medium and heavy...... first three feet with the lite second three feet with the med and the last three with the heavy..... did this at the Oak Mountain track in Pelham, Al. before it shut down and had no problem with cars not stopping....
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
    Dub Motors
    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    2
    I am using Kofard heavy all the way down and they still not stoping

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    what they are doing is hitting the heavy glue and getting on top...... use the lite, med to heavy and it controls the cars a lot better
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
    Dub Motors
    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Everett, Wa.
    Posts
    520
    I'm ignorant on shutdown areas, so Ill ask. Are they open circuit or do they have "braking" wired in, ie shunted w/resistance or dead short across the braid?
    Guy Middleton
    Everything I was taught in Engineering school I had already learned from slot cars....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    usually it's a dead zone......
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
    Dub Motors
    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Everett, Wa.
    Posts
    520
    Jim:
    When you say its dead, you mean shorted as in max braking as on a controller?
    Guy Middleton
    Everything I was taught in Engineering school I had already learned from slot cars....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    I mean no power at all....... those tracks that have used some power to use as brakes, it just didn't work and they had some problems with motors..... the best way to stop the cars is to use the lite, med., heavy glue method.... with just the heavy, the cars are going just fast enough and the glue sticky enough , that the cars will tend to get up on top of the glue and act like they are on ice.... won't stop..... the light slows them just enough to hit the med that they slow just enough that the heavy will stop them in their tracks.....
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
    Dub Motors
    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Everett, Wa.
    Posts
    520
    I can see the abrupt braking being applied affecting the car dynamics overall but also the gear train. The glue method just applies to the tires not the gear train so I see the benefit of that "tiered viscosity" method you use.
    Thanks
    Guy Middleton
    Everything I was taught in Engineering school I had already learned from slot cars....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Conshohocken, PA
    Posts
    16
    shunting(dead short) the rails at the very end helps as this builds against the armature as the car gets nearer. it will NOT hurt the car.
    light reverse polarity (9 volt battery) will not hurt the car either.
    been there
    done that
    have the T and hat

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    St Charles, Illinois, USA
    Posts
    2,319
    Logic told ME that if the gear train can handle the powered ACCELERATION, then the dynamic braking should never harm the same gears. I hard wired my shutdown area - just wire-nut the braids together.... My strip was a full 100 ft, 35 ft shutdown and some cars did roll to the end. Timing (motor advance) affects the braking ability more than you might think.

    I tried another approach as well: A traction magnet on the car and heavy duty steel braid instead of copper braid. Never needed the drag of heavy glue on launch or shutdown. I liked the effect....never had time to see if it could break records with the faster cars. Did not need wheeelie bars for 'street stock ' class...falcon motors. Magnet helped to plant the car and not skate over the glue.

    Reverse polarity CAN harm the brushes if the car sits in the reverse area as heat can build up from the direct short...could lead to commutator plate delamination
    Last edited by Ramcatlarry; 05-09-2015 at 11:36 AM.
    l.d. kelley, M.A. Ramcatlarry@aol.com

    60 year pin 1959-2019
    Racing slot cars in America
    USRA 2019 member
    IRRA, ISRA/USA, Hardbodies 1/24 &
    1/32 - Great Lakes Slot Car Club
    retired raceway owner 1992-2007
    Omni/Cidex service center

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    276
    GREAT reply Larry, very informative, excellent idea using steel braid & traction magnets. ween something like that done in a couple of places, & some drag tracks still do something like that; with magnets.

    Not really a solution for traveling racers... glue is still the most commonly used method for stopping cars. Make sure you have an old Telephone book at the end of the track for racers to roll out their tires to remove extra glue...
    Ben Kernan
    Formerly of SARN

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    1,304
    We have found the glue in the shut down area needs to be cleaned/scraped up and re glued about once a month depending on how much it's used.
    I use a cheap plastic 1" putty knife. Glue doesn't seem to keep it's good glue life forever.

    In between those times...we use a thin roller to roll thru to glue. Helps freshen it.

    My track is about the same legnth as yours. We do the 3' light, 3' med and 3' heavy. We also have a catch bag at the end for the occasional need.
    Shontel

    Dallas Slot Cars
    dallasslotcars.com

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    FLORIDA U.S.A.
    Posts
    298
    What do you guys think would be a fair cost to have a totally no-glue (zero/nada) shutdown area?

    Personally I think drag slots are very cool but I rather pack wheel bearings (real car) in the palm of my hand than be 'sticky' the whole time at the track.

    How about $2500 for the modification?
    Would racers be willing to 'share' the cost with a higher entry fee?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    St Charles, Illinois, USA
    Posts
    2,319
    I think some cars can coast for more than 50 ft without SOME braking effect. Some stores seem to like their 'fly-trap' shutdowns that need to be cleaned often....

    It is not hard to rip a sheet of lumber and cut a slot with a circular saw - router really not needed for a drag strip unless you lay braid. Copper tape could work for a shut down area.
    l.d. kelley, M.A. Ramcatlarry@aol.com

    60 year pin 1959-2019
    Racing slot cars in America
    USRA 2019 member
    IRRA, ISRA/USA, Hardbodies 1/24 &
    1/32 - Great Lakes Slot Car Club
    retired raceway owner 1992-2007
    Omni/Cidex service center

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