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Thread: New JK Aeolos Chassis

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
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    293

    New JK Aeolos Chassis

    I guess most people who have been following the introduction of this chassis will have got one by now and been doing some trialling of it

    Some interesting setup tips have even been produced by ABSlotsport

    JKASETUP.pdf

    I have found it to be fast and well handling on our flat track, if a little more lively than the X25 and Mossetti Patriot.

    Did need some lead, even with LMP body.



    I'm interested in other racers findings, particularly on other Flat Tracks using FK power plants.
    Last edited by swodem; 12-11-2016 at 10:43 AM.
    listen, study, spy, try, research, invent

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Fostoria, Ohio
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    50
    Interesting the weight you added. I just weighed both versions with body mounted and no lead added. My x25 (with frt axle and JK plastic frt wheels) weighted 99 grams, and the Aeolos weighted 89 grams. This was with Retro Hawk motors, OS 290 GT1 .007 bodies, JK plastic hub tires, Koford guide.

    Do you know how much your car weighed after you added the lead? And would you be kind enough to explain what the car was doing that made you add the lead?

    Appreciate you sharing your comments.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
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    Frankie

    Had a little too much grip with natural untreated Piranhas on a freshly goo'ed track, so some lead at the back to make it slide a little easier.
    The nose had a penchant for popping out occasionally so I added lead at the front
    Pan movement was I thought excessive (for LMP anyway which is what I was testing with) so tightened up the front and the fore-aft movement with some tape.
    All this made it a little more precise and consistent. Its still a lively chassis

    For info I have also added lead to my Mossetti Patriot. They are both a little light, I think the X25 is about right weight wise (for FLAT track with FK motors). Banked tracks may differ...

    I will say JK braid isn't as good as Prime :-(
    listen, study, spy, try, research, invent

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Fostoria, Ohio
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    50
    Thank you sir for the information. I'm also going to use mine for flat track here in the states, preparing for the trip to Italy next year. Your insight is certainly helpful and appreciated.

  5. #5
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    Sep 2014
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    Auckland, New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankie View Post
    Interesting the weight you added. I just weighed both versions with body mounted and no lead added. My x25 (with frt axle and JK plastic frt wheels) weighted 99 grams, and the Aeolos weighted 89 grams. This was with Retro Hawk motors, OS 290 GT1 .007 bodies, JK plastic hub tires, Koford guide.

    Do you know how much your car weighed after you added the lead? And would you be kind enough to explain what the car was doing that made you add the lead?

    Appreciate you sharing your comments.


    81.39g...Note without rear axle



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by swodem; 12-22-2016 at 01:19 AM.
    listen, study, spy, try, research, invent

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    459
    Here's my contribution. It's a group 10 car that was built for use on the very fast 220 Engleman at Speed Zone raceway in NJ. I need to do alot more testing but so far I'm very impressed. The metal used to for this chassis is dramatically better than anything else JK has ever put on the market. Even with the steel being as hard as it is this chassis still has good Flex.

    Both of my chassis came out of the bag straight enough to race. The guide tongue was bent down and took effort to bend a few degrees up.

    Dave

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    Last edited by gotboostedvr6; 01-25-2017 at 12:20 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    44
    Is there insulation on that copper wire?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Posts
    4,511
    More importantly. What are you trying to achieve by using the bare copper wire?

    A reduction in weight?
    Zippity

    "Rules are written by FEAR; and that Racers are motivated by the Fear that somebody may have something that gives others an Edge." - Rocky Russo



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Homeless in Canada
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    212
    It is "magnet" wire. Same used for winding arms. It has a thin layer on it as an insulator. Used to be popular with wing car race 10 years or so ago. Mike swiss went so far as to solder a short piece to the chassis behind the earring back and used the chassis as a ground and and then has a piece come off the chassis to the motor.
    Solid wire vs stranded. We used to use 20 gauge magnet wire soldered to 18 gauge leadwire.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    459
    It's 22 gauge magnet wire called "noob wire". It's sold by go brushless. It has a polymer coating that is 4 layers thick and is very very durable.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
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    I know what the wire is.

    What proven benefits have you achieved by using it?
    Zippity

    "Rules are written by FEAR; and that Racers are motivated by the Fear that somebody may have something that gives others an Edge." - Rocky Russo



  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    459
    Several reasons;

    I have a Extech milliohm meter and it tells me there is almost no difference between 22 gauge magnet wire and 18 gauge multi strand. Consider the very very short length and The relatively low amp draw of scale classes.

    It weighs less then 18 gauge TQ wire. We race with a minimum weight of 103 grams. I'd rather add lead where I want it then have a cg disadvantage.

    I've never had magnet wire get stuck under my chassis and it helps keep my DZ style guide wire routing in place.

    It can be a physiological advantage.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    37
    Your milliohm meter is nowhere near accurate enough to measure the difference between #22 solid and #18 stranded wire - you would need a Bridge to do that. What you can do is look at the circular mils which is the cross section area of the wire - similar to square inches except for round.

    #22 solid is 640.1 cir mils; #18 stranded is 1617.3 cir mils or 2.5 times bigger in total area available to carry the current.

    Don Weaver

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    293

    New JK Aeolos Chassis

    Don
    I'm interested, why is there a need to have such huge/thick leadwire capable of carrying huge current/amps, when in the end it's got to go through around 30" of #30 arm wire - isn't it all overkill?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    listen, study, spy, try, research, invent

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    459
    Yes it is.
    Given the short length of the wire and very low current we use thick wire is overkill.

    22 gauge Pooh bear wire actually runs slightly faster lap times then 18 gauge TQ wire on our Engleman.

    There is a significant enough difference in weight to improve lap times.

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