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Thread: Who is Mark Schlosser?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Long Island,N.Y.
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    896

    Who is Mark Schlosser?

    Just picked up a chassis built in '73 on Ebay. Coming from Washington. Typical brass and wire drop arm chassis of the era. Engraved on the drop arm is :


    BUTTON

    Mark Schlosser

    4/73


    Anybody know who Mark is?

    Edit:
    Found this from a search here..."I ran into Tom again at a Western States Champs race in Oakland, where Tom didn't race, but he stayed up all night building a car for Tore Anderson, who slept under the HO track we had built in the room (using the closet door and drawers for a table). I was with fellow Seattle racer, the late Mark Schlosser - but our room was soon wall-to-wall with new slot racing friends who needed a place to crash."
    Paul K
    Last edited by Sam pan; 10-24-2018 at 07:55 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Sep 2011
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    " I was with fellow Seattle racer, the late Mark Schlosser - but our room was soon wall-to-wall with new slot racing friends who needed a place to crash."
    Paul K[/QUOTE]

    Paul,
    Tell me more about Mark. What is "BUTTON"? Did he build for others? I want to build this chassis up to a complete car. What was a typical car equipped with in '73?
    Last edited by Sam pan; 10-27-2018 at 12:45 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Sep 2011
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    OK, I got the chassis and gave the bottom a quick cleaning with Scotchbrite and Brasso. The engraving says:

    the
    "BUTTON"
    by Mark Schlosser (signed)
    4/73

    So the chassis was named "The Button". I'm thinking this was a customer build then. Full plumber. Lots of movement as was the practice at the time. The drop arm drops over .130".
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
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    4,451
    How about a photograph or three??

    Zippity

    "Rules are written by FEAR; and that Racers are motivated by the Fear that somebody may have something that gives others an Edge." - Rocky Russo



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Long Island,N.Y.
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    Welcome back from the Orient Zip.

    Yeah, my IT guy has to help me with that. But here's the Ebay link:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-RETRO...72.m2749.l2649
    Don't resist....VOTE !

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    1,895
    Sam, this chassis seems to be built for lots of flex. The front axle tube uprights both face forward, it appears the main rails are 1 of .063 & 1 of .055, with short half rails. It probably has other features than don't stand out in the photos. It should go good running in spray glue.
    I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Long Island,N.Y.
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    Bill,

    You are correct sir.(Ed McMahon)

    One rail .063" and one of ..055". Another feature that lends to more flex is the split drop arm hinge. Has .032" pans and .040" drop arm. Odd thing is the width at 3.185" . I'm pretty sure max width at the time was 3.125". As respect for Mark's chassis building legacy, I'm leaving it as is. Plus it will never see a tech table.


    Recently bought a junk lot on Ebay that had a nice clean Mura 2-Hole Green Can motor on one car. Only reason I bid on the pile. Complete with Elephant Ears and buss bars. Original X-12 arm. It will get a quick go thru and into it's new home, "The Button". Just need some 3/32" fronts. I have none. Maybe I'll make a set from an old set of rears.


    As for the body I'm open to suggestions. Were full stoopid big wings being run in '73? I'm leaning towards the wrap around style of NCC rules.

    Cars like these would make for some great "Nostalgia Racing". I see NOS Parma chassis on Ebay all the time. They can be modified or just used for the parts. The "Tottenham" cars that are run in the UK are proof this is doable. Like Retro racing, modern parts will make the racing more doable. Plenty of Mura C-Cans out there. Just have to settle on a arm.
    Last edited by Sam pan; 10-28-2018 at 09:51 AM.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Sam, one easy solution for fronts is to sleeve a pair made for 1/8" axles with 1/8" brass or aluminum tubing. The big wings were run before 1973. Use wrap-arounds or whatever winging you're comfortable with. I would say use a retro Can Am or coupe body you like the looks of. I've always liked the Lola coupes. Yes, some of the Parma & Rehco chassis on eBay would be a good source of brass chassis parts. Pans could be easily racer made, but drop arms would require more work. Your combination of .040 droparm & .032 pans was what most ran in the '70s. That's all I built back then.
    Last edited by Bill from NH; 10-29-2018 at 02:26 PM.
    I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

  9. #9
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    Jun 2002
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    NYC/Long Island
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    Give it a good tumble Sam!

    Cheers

  10. #10
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    Bill,
    I only have o-ring style 1/8" fronts but they will do for now. It's going into Duffy's tumbler for now.
    Don't resist....VOTE !

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    It should be a fun project. Post a photo here when you get the car done.
    I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

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