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Thread: Parts for Steube-Cukras F1 build

  1. #1
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    Parts for Steube-Cukras F1 build

    Reposted here are some of the great pictures PDL posted a while back of the Steube & Cukras Memphis F1 winner. This race was reported in Model Car & Racing magazine, Sept 1967.


    The parts I've found are: Russkit front wheels, motor bracket, 3/16 oilite bearings, driver figure and decals that need sun bleaching. Cox guide and lead wires, Riggen gears, K&B front tires, Pactra body, Champion Arco 33 magnets and shim, and a Mabuchi motor setup. So far so good me thinks. Now the hard part. I don't have Weldon rear wheels or a Steube 60 turns of 28 wire arm and the way things are going I probably never will. I can substitute the Dynamic 5/8 X 7/8 Blue drifters for the Weldon's. The arm I have pictured has CW timing (like Steube's), thick laminations, soldered com wires and Mura style dynamic balancing.

    Philippe,

    Could you please help with a few questions
    1. Are those 3/16 diameter oilites for the rear axle?
    2. That is a Riggen crown gear isn't it?
    3. Are the numbers and prancing horse the only decals?
    4. Is that a Russkit drivers head (Praying Mantis style)?
    5. The motor can appears painted in the race report. What color would you use?

    Now the bigge.........I can't tell how the rear axle bracket is braced beyond the obvious u-brace. Nor how the drop arm is constructed around the guide flag pivot tube. A top view of the chassis would sure help. Are you done with your taxes yet? We vintage car crazies are very needy. Can you help?

  2. #2
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    Sure Rick, I'll help.

    Apparently I got a bit cranky this week because a few here and somewhere else got a bit mad at me with good reason. I guess the IRS and their incredibly complex forms that I can barely read anymore got to me... Sorry if I hurt anyone's feelings in my harsh comments. I should know better.

    Rick, I will take detailed pics of the car Monday and post them. The crown gear is a Cox (the Riggen did not even exist when the car raced, and they all crack anyway). I believe that the car has flanged ball bearings at the back. The arm has the thick Manuchi laminations because nothing else existed then, the thinner ones a couple of months away. The original motor was purple because Steube was using AMT cans. For the rest, you will have to wait a couple of days, sorry!
    Best regards,

    Dr. Pea

  3. #3
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    For the rest, you will have to wait a couple of days, sorry!
    No problem. Thanks Philippe, I really appreciate your help!

    Rick
    Last edited by dc-65x; 07-03-2004 at 07:26 PM.

  4. #4
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    !!!

    Rick, I am thrilled that there are people as enthusiastic as you are to pay tribute to the period great hobbyists. Some day your cars will be in museums.
    Regards,

    Dr. Pea

  5. #5
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    Vegas Baby

    Hi PdL

    Sorry about the IRS! I do know.

    Anyway, have you talked to this guy about how we have been running these cars at the Vegas con, and next year we are actually trying to do something more like a formal ARCO rules race?

    Fate

  6. #6
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    The crown gear is a Cox
    Check. Cox it is. The darn thing just looked like a Riggen to me in the pictures. I did some more research and it looks like the Cox was replaced by the Weldon and the Riggen never really entered the picture.
    I believe that the car has flanged ball bearings at the back.
    Again the pictures aren't worth the car in your hands! I thought
    the rear axle tubes looked biggen than 5/32 but maybe smaller than 9/32 so I guessed (wrong) for 7/32. I hope they are 1/4 ball bearings. I love ball bearings.
    The arm has the thick Manuchi laminations because nothing else existed then, the thinner ones a couple of months away.
    Looks like I've got the arm covered as best I can.
    The original motor was purple because Steube was using AMT cans.
    Purple it is.

    Thanks Philippe. Can't wait for Monday!

    Rick

  7. #7
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    Sorry for the delay, I had a ton of stuff to do after my latest round of eye surgery. I'll get to it pronto.
    Hi Philippe,

    The quote is from the wire bending thread but I was thinking.....
    As long as you have the camera out... ...could I please have a top view of this car

    This thread was about to slip to the next page so I thought I would ask now but any time you feel up to it would be great.

    Thank you,

    Rick

  8. #8
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    Hay...

    ...is that you, Thigpen?

  9. #9
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    Smile Here you go...

    Below are the requested pictures for your information:






    This car won the first true national-level professional race ever organised in the United States, built and driven by the unlikely team of John Cukras and Mike Steube. The last picture shows the original motor used for the race, built by Bill Steube Sr. with an armature wound by John Cukras. Even the tires and braided contacts are the original ones, the car never ran again after the Memphis race.
    Regards,

    Dr. Pea

  10. #10
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    Above and beyond the call of duty.....

    WOW!.........Great pictures. Here's a big THANKS!!!! for sure. Now I need to put the time into this project to justify your efforts. I can see I need to rethink the motor part of this project. I may have an armature balanced in that fashion. If not I'll rewind one and go to town balancing it.

    Questions:

    1. The lower picture of the car has the correct motor and the upper does not, right?

    2. Is the motor can color in the lower picture a light metallic silver like a Revell can or something else?

    3. Is there a chrome Arco magnet shim used in the motor?

    4. Are those Champion spring post protectors?

    5. Are the hex brush holders soldered to the brush hoods?

    6. This is to soon for the Versatec shunted burshes isn't it?

    7. Is there a short lenght of 7/32" tube used to hold the guide into the drop arm?

    Sorry, you just do me the favor of posting all these great pictures and all I do is bug you with questions.

    Thanks a lot Philippe!

    Rick

  11. #11
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    Talking Freedom of Information Act

    1. The lower picture of the car has the correct motor and the upper does not, right?

    Three motors were used during this race, because there were many heats to qualify for the main event. The light gray and the dark gray unit were both used as well as another of even darker color not identified in the collection. The newspaper pics were taken before the races, so the dark motor was the first in the car.

    2. Is the motor can color in the lower picture a light metallic silver like a Revell can or something else?

    Darker silver.

    3. Is there a chrome Arco magnet shim used in the motor?

    No, it's too early for that.

    4. Are those Champion spring post protectors?

    No, too early. These were Steube or Dyna-Rewind.

    5. Are the hex brush holders soldered to the brush hoods?

    Yes.

    6. This is to soon for the Versatec shunted burshes isn't it?

    Oh, yes! Besides, the Versitec brushes are to small for the Mabuchi brush holders.

    7. Is there a short lenght of 7/32" tube used to hold the guide into the drop arm?

    Yes.

    "Sorry, you just do me the favor of posting all these great pictures and all I do is bug you with questions."

    Does this mean that you are going to break down and accept to assemble my 2D?


  12. #12
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    Does this mean that you are going to break down and accept to assemble my 2D?
    The "Pro" cars are calling me. They need to be represented. So many slot cars to build, so little time.

    Thanks for the info, it helps a lot. As long as I'm on a roll here, I can't quite figure out what's going on with part of the rear bracket bracing. I think I see "L" braces on the outside of the bracket down to the main rails on each side. But, in the bottom view in the last picture there's something running along the bottom of the bracket under the motor screw?

    And (hopefully) lastly. Is that a first generation Russkit driver's head and is it dark blue?

    Thanks again,

    Rick

  13. #13
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    ttt

  14. #14
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    The Build Begins

    Well, here we go. My Steube-Cukras inspired motor:
    New plated Mabuchi can from LM Gillett painted with DupliColor auto touchup paint to look like a Revell can.
    Epoxied can gimble bearing.
    Early Arco magnets (cut down 36d's I believe?)
    Mabuchi endbell with the cracks filled with gap filling Zap glue.
    French spring post protectors and brush springs.
    Brush hoods soldered to the hex brush holders.
    Early clockwise timed, red wire, thick lamination, drill balanced (not the later sheet metal drill style) armature that buzzes up pretty good.
    No.2 sheet metal screws holding the whole thing together.

    The chassis is next. Then the dreaded (for me) body painting.


  15. #15
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    Smile Pretty good...

    The can screws on many of these motors appear to be shortened nickel-plate K&B 4-40 machine screws like on their aluminum-num chassis.

    Doc

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