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Thread: More CanAm frames - how many is enough?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Irvine, CA
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    327

    More CanAm frames - how many is enough?

    Good to see some threads here about CanAm - I guess we all have a need to post somewhere!

    I thought I would show some old and some new - just to se ehow the designs have progressed over the last year.

    Here's the first one I did:



    This one is still running in SoCal in the hands of a buddy.

    Next generation:



    More weight up front and the now-famous Mike Steube "split bite bar". This one went to a buddy in Australia.

    For the East Coast guys, who have a minimum weight limit, even more brass:



    Then things started to get out of hand! The constant search for more speed and the introduction of the Gerding King track at BPR spawned a new design direction:



    After that, things got seriously out of hand, in a good way I guess, orders started coming in from all over:





    One for me, two for friends in the UK.

    And just when I thought it couldn't last, it got worse:



    Two more for the UK, six or seven for SoCal, four for guys here in Denver...

    In summary, in a little more than a year, I've built 26 CanAm frames in two basic designs with some variations, and there are still seven waiting for assembly. Pity my day job has to interfere.......

    Just small changes to the design, lots of difference in the quantities! Hopefully the quality is still there.
    Last edited by gascarnut; 10-19-2012 at 12:17 PM.
    Dennis Samson

    Scratchbuilding is life
    Life is scratchbuilt

    Samson Classics

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    20
    Dennis, how many is too much? I'm not sure so we better build one more and see if that's going to be enough. Doubt it will be. LOL! I don't know about you but I've sure learned alot of stuff that doesn't work to produce better handling in these scratchbuilt frames.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Irvine, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Steube
    I don't know about you but I've sure learned alot of stuff that doesn't work to produce better handling in these scratchbuilt frames.
    Agreed, although it seems that stuff that doesn't work on one track might still be good on others.

    For example, the East Coast guys like some fore and aft movement in the pans, and I know we didn't use that at BP.
    Dennis Samson

    Scratchbuilding is life
    Life is scratchbuilt

    Samson Classics

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    1,943
    Dennis, soon we'll be calling you Henry Ford Jr. Do you offer any colors other than black?
    I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Irvine, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill from NH
    Do you offer any colors other than black?
    Tires? No - just black.

    Frames? Just brass and steel, although I have done some in PCB and Carbon Fiber before.

    Bodies? Any color you want, but I warn you, I'm no Noose or Jairus:









    Last edited by gascarnut; 10-19-2012 at 12:17 PM.
    Dennis Samson

    Scratchbuilding is life
    Life is scratchbuilt

    Samson Classics

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Denville, NJ
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    659
    Dennis,
    Who is making that Chappy? Would love to do one of them up. Have you mounted on the current Can-Am style chassis?
    Noose
    Joe " Noose" Neumeister - Team Nutley
    Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies
    Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967!
    Chairman - IRRA Body Committee
    The only thing bad about retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.

  7. #7
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    Feb 2005
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noose
    Dennis,
    Who is making that Chappy? Would love to do one of them up. Have you mounted on the current Can-Am style chassis?
    Noose
    Noose, I got it from a slot racing buddy in the UK who makes them himself - his name is John Dilworth, he goes by "howmet tx" on the boards (mostly slotforum and the 'blog).

    They are pulled from .020" PETG so they are a little on the heavy side, and do not have a lot of detail yet, as John is still fiddling with the mold. It is big - plenty big enough to swallow a D3 frame, but it is long front and rear and fairly high so it won't be a great competitive body. But it is real pretty.....

    John did the Ferrari CanAm as well - it's a modification of the old Lancer shell, with a slightly longer nose and a higher spoiler.

    I did the 2H for another racing buddy in the UK, Jeff Davies, who organized the 24 hour race at the recent Brooklands 100 year celebrations.
    Last edited by gascarnut; 07-11-2007 at 07:41 AM.
    Dennis Samson

    Scratchbuilding is life
    Life is scratchbuilt

    Samson Classics

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    California
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    Nice Dennis! Maybe I can trade some of the new bodies for a chassis

    Victor
    Last edited by TrueScale; 07-11-2007 at 06:19 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrueScale
    Nice Dennis! Maybe I can trade some of the new bodies for a chassis

    Victor
    Now you've gone and blown my surprise! I have been thinking along the same lines, but I wanted to get the frame done first.

    I have parts ready for a frame that has your name on it, but it will be a week or two till I can get it done.

    I'll keep you informed.
    Dennis Samson

    Scratchbuilding is life
    Life is scratchbuilt

    Samson Classics

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Alexander, NC
    Posts
    55

    Motor Brackets

    Looking at the photos, I noticed that you have two different style of motor brackets.
    What make of motor brackets are you using or are you making them your self.
    Paul
    Paul Lambert
    Bad Elf
    Photographer and Slow Slot Car Builder and Racer

  11. #11
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    Feb 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambert
    Looking at the photos, I noticed that you have two different style of motor brackets.
    What make of motor brackets are you using or are you making them your self.
    Paul
    Paul,

    Sometimes I use the drag bracket that Buena Park Raceways sells (WRP? I think), sometimes I use the billet brass bracket from BWA in Canada, but mostly I make my own, so I can adjust the width as I need it, 1" for CanAms, 3/4" for F1 frames.

    The BWA bracket may not be available any more - there was talk of it being discontinued. It is nice when you want a bit more weight at the back of the frame.
    Dennis Samson

    Scratchbuilding is life
    Life is scratchbuilt

    Samson Classics

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Alexander, NC
    Posts
    55

    Great Info

    Quote Originally Posted by gascarnut
    Paul,

    Sometimes I use the drag bracket that Buena Park Raceways sells (WRP? I think), sometimes I use the billet brass bracket from BWA in Canada, but mostly I make my own, so I can adjust the width as I need it, 1" for CanAms, 3/4" for F1 frames.

    The BWA bracket may not be available any more - there was talk of it being discontinued. It is nice when you want a bit more weight at the back of the frame.
    Thank you for the information.
    Now I need to find a layout for a motor bracket.
    I like the idea of the 1 inch Can Am and 3/4 inch for F1.

    Again thanks for the info

    Paul
    Paul Lambert
    Bad Elf
    Photographer and Slow Slot Car Builder and Racer

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Newark, DE
    Posts
    515

    Wheelbase?

    I know this is an older thread, and that I'm old and hanging by a thread... but what is the wheelbase of these chassis? Also, the distance from front axle center to guide post center? I think I read somewhere that a 4" WB and 1" to the guide post was a good start...?

    Ahhh, the good ol' daze...
    Phil Lee
    If ya' can't beat 'em, feed 'em!

    <_____
    O_____\_
    There's a fine line between racing and standing
    at the driver's panel looking like an idiot...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Denville, NJ
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    Phil, 4"WB and 1"GL is the perfect start. Some of the guys are running a slightly smaller WB and GL but this one works very well. The only problem you might have is whether the body you choose to use will fit properly. If you go with a slightly shorter WB and GL just about everyone will fit.
    Joe " Noose" Neumeister - Team Nutley
    Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies
    Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967!
    Chairman - IRRA Body Committee
    The only thing bad about retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Newark, DE
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by Noose
    Phil, 4"WB and 1"GL is the perfect start. Some of the guys are running a slightly smaller WB and GL but this one works very well. The only problem you might have is whether the body you choose to use will fit properly. If you go with a slightly shorter WB and GL just about everyone will fit.
    Thank you for the quick reply!

    I'll tell ya', this is a breath of fresh air to me... I can't wait to get the ol' Dremel, brass and wire out again!

    WooHoo!!!
    Phil Lee
    If ya' can't beat 'em, feed 'em!

    <_____
    O_____\_
    There's a fine line between racing and standing
    at the driver's panel looking like an idiot...

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