Best 1/24-1/25 hard body chassis?

[Jammin' Justin]

I want to start building hardbody cars, but I don't know what chassis to put under the body. I know of the pro track and H+R chassis, but what would you guys recommended? Help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

[La Cucaracha]

Check out Brian Meharry`s new chassis.

B & E

He sells rollers too.

[Tex]

I can't say which is best 'cause I have only one and haven't tried others yet. But my limited hardbody racing makes me think ALL hardbody cars handle better when a lot of lead is added as low as possible. My hardbody '65 Mustang 2+2 Trans-Am car weighs about 230 grams and actually handles pretty decent(when compared to the other Trans-Am cars). But when 230 grams deslots, it's going to the wall, baby! LOL As with all slot car racing, finding the right rear tire grip level is critical. Too much rear bite and the car will literally turn over... easily. Keep adding lead until the rear end will drift around the corner. Then don't come off!

Oh yeah, I'm using an H&R chassis. It's OK. Mainly it's just a platform to hang the motor, wheels, body and lead on.

[Jammin' Justin]

Which h&r chassis are you using tex? I'm looking for one that has an adjustable wheelbase.

[La Cucaracha]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

[La Cucaracha]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/303991896418243/

[BSlotcar.com]

Scaleauto do a really simple hard body chassis that drives great.

[Tex]

Justin,

I think the chassis I have is a HRCH02. I say "think" because I bought it as a roller(HRCH04... I "think"). This was/is my first foray into hardbody racing with a brass chassis(also have a Scaleauto Mercedes and a BRM Porsche 962). If you are used to modern flexi chassis' and nicely built brass retro chassis', this chassis may seem crude. But it's proven adequate for my needs. It's oddly shaped, so attaching lead proved to be somewhat of a challenge; but I got it done and it handles pretty good for what it is. One of the hardbody tricks the other guys taught me was to get the body to "float" some. I mentioned adding lead to get the rear of the car to drift but I forgot to mention narrowing the rear tires in conjunction with adding the lead. Heck, I had to narrow my rears to about 1/2" just to fit them under the 1/25 scale Mustang and have a little wiggle room for the body to float. The rubber is natural/fish rubber. If you can get harder tires that are sufficiently tall, you may not need as much lead.

[Ramcatlarry]

Most of the 'hardbody' frames really depend on what model kit bodies you intend to fit under them. I Race with Brian and his crew. Check the facebook page for our rules for the different eras of sedan stockcars at 'mid-america hardbody racers'.. These rules start with the FCR frame and allow the H & R as well as cutting a womp/thumper in half and extending to the needed wheelbase. The body width dictated the frame width with velcro mounting. No flex is a requirement of all of these designs. My first B & E car is still in assembly to race at the end of the month at South Bend, Indiana.

In the 1990's, we raced similar womp-based hardbodies with super-wasp motors. It is a lot less damage with the Demon/hawk class of motor.

I have seen the euro-hardbodies and wonder why they want to have all of those nuts and bolts cluttering up the track. The West coast D-3 crew has shown some interesting cars and I hope to build some 'vettes and cobra with more of a retro chassis, myself for flat tracking.